Northern Vietnam; an amazing first visit itinerary

A Journey Through Hanoi: Exploring the Famous Train Street

Visiting Hanoi is like stepping into a whirlwind of culture, flavours, and energy. The Vietnamese capital is a city of contrasts, where ancient pagodas sit side by side with modern cafes, and where the chaotic symphony of motorbikes somehow weaves into the daily rhythm of life. On my most recent trip, I had the chance to experience one of Hanoi’s most iconic and photogenic attractions: the legendary Train Street.

What started as a functional railway line has become a must-visit destination for travellers from around the world. The experience of sipping Vietnamese coffee just inches from a passing train is equal parts thrilling, surreal, and unforgettable.

Let me take you through my visit, with some history, recommendations, and a suggested itinerary if you want to make the most of your own trip.

The Story Behind Hanoi’s Train Street

Train Street is located in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, one of the most atmospheric neighborhoods in Vietnam. The railway was originally built during the French colonial period in the early 20th century, designed to connect northern Vietnam with the rest of the country. For decades, trains rumbled right through residential neighborhoods, where families lived and worked just a few feet from the tracks.

What makes it extraordinary is how life has adapted around the railway. Houses were built so close that locals had to pull in their laundry and move motorbikes out of the way whenever a train passed. Over time, the sight of a massive train squeezing through the narrow alley became not just routine for residents, but a magnet for adventurous travellers.

In recent years, the street grew in fame thanks to social media. Cafes sprung up along the tracks, offering visitors the chance to enjoy a drink while waiting for the train. Although local authorities have occasionally closed it due to safety concerns, it remains open under stricter regulations- meaning visitors can still enjoy the magic, but in a more controlled environment.

The Experience: Coffee, Anticipation, and the Roar of the Train

Walking down Train Street feels like entering a movie set. Narrow houses flank the railway on both sides, their balconies draped with plants and laundry. Tiny stools and tables spill out from cafes, where owners beckon you in with promises of coffee, beer, and the best view of the passing train.

We arrived about half an hour before the scheduled train, which gave me plenty of time to settle in. We chose a seat at a small café called The Railway Hanoi, tucked just a few doors down from the tracks.

As the train time approached, the energy shifted. Locals began moving chairs and tables closer to the walls, and visitors (myself included) raised cameras in anticipation. Then came the rumble- low and distant at first, then louder, faster, until suddenly, there it was: a bright blue locomotive barrelling down the alley.

The train passed just inches away, its wind whipping against our faces, and for a few moments the world was nothing but steel, sound, and adrenaline. Nothing can prepare you for how close the train actually comes to you. This is despite the café owners moving you towards the walls, packing away chairs and tables, and telling you to squeeze your legs in as much as possible. The train was terrifyingly close when it comes through the street; you are genuinely so unprepared for how close! The train passing seems to be never-ending too; it goes on and on and on!

It was one of those rare travel experiences that truly lived up to the hype. We stayed for another train to pass as it was only 10 minutes later. And the next one after that came just as quickly, so we ended up staying for 3 of them!

Suggested Itinerary for Visiting Hanoi Train Street

If you’d like to experience Train Street for yourself, timing and planning are everything. Here’s a suggested half-day itinerary based on my visit:

10:00 AM – Explore the Old Quarter

Start your day wandering through Hanoi’s Old Quarter. Lose yourself in the narrow streets, where each lane is named after the goods once sold there (like Silver Street or Silk Street). Stop for a quick bowl of pho or some banh mi from a street vendor.

12:00 PM – Lunch at Pho Thin

Head to Pho Thin (13 Lo Duc Street), one of Hanoi’s most famous pho restaurants. Their smoky, beefy broth is legendary and worth the short detour.

1:30 PM – Visit Train Street

Make your way to Train Street. The most popular access point is near Ngõ 224 Lê Duẩn, though there are also entrances from Phung Hung Street. Arrive at least 30 minutes before a scheduled train so you can secure a good seat at a café.

Train Schedule Tip: Trains usually run in the early morning, afternoon, and evening. Times can change, so check with a local café owner—they always know when the next train will pass. We spotted a number of printed train timetables along the street as well so keep an eye out for these.

Be aware there is a break between trains from around 5pm until 7pm!

2:00 PM – Coffee and Train Viewing

Settle into a café, order a Vietnamese coffee or a cold beer, and soak in the atmosphere. Be ready with your camera, but don’t forget to put it down for a moment and just enjoy the rush of the train itself. The café owners put down the beer lids on the train tracks and then give the squashed lids to you as a souvenir afterwards.

3:00 PM – Walk to Hoan Kiem Lake

After your adrenaline fix, stroll towards Hoan Kiem Lake, the heart of Hanoi. Relax by the water, visit Ngoc Son Temple, and watch locals practicing tai chi.

5:00 PM – Sunset Drinks at Skyline Hanoi

For a panoramic view of the city, head to Skyline Hanoi (38 Gia Ngư). The rooftop bar is perfect for unwinding with a cocktail as the sun sets.

7:00 PM – Dinner at Duong’s Restaurant

End the day with dinner at Duong’s Restaurant (27 Ngo Huyen), where you can try elevated Vietnamese cuisine. The spring rolls and caramelized pork are especially delicious.

Restaurants and Bars near Train Street

If you plan to linger around Train Street before or after the train passes, there are plenty of great food and drink options nearby:

• The Railway Hanoi Café – Cozy spot right by the tracks, perfect for coffee or fresh coconut juice.
• Railway Café 222 – Known for its friendly owners and excellent egg coffee.
• Pasteur Street Brewing Co. – A few minutes’ walk away, this craft brewery is a great place to sample Vietnamese-inspired beers.
• Beer Street (Ta Hien Street) – Hanoi’s famous backpacker hub is about a 10-minute walk from Train Street, with cheap bia hoi (fresh draft beer) and buzzing nightlife.

Tips for your visit

Arrive Early: Seats at the best cafes fill up quickly before train times.

Stay Safe: Always listen to locals and move out of the way when asked. The trains are real and dangerous if you get too close.

Support Local Businesses: Buy a drink or snack from the cafes; it’s how they sustain themselves and keep Train Street accessible.

Check Train Times: Schedules can vary, especially on weekends. Confirm with a café owner before planning your visit.

Hanoi’s Train Street is one of those rare travel experiences that manages to be both authentic and cinematic. It captures the spirit of the city: vibrant, chaotic, and full of surprises. Watching a train thunder past while sipping Vietnamese coffee is something I’ll never forget—and I can’t recommend it enough to anyone visiting Hanoi.

Whether you’re in Hanoi for a few days or just passing through, carve out time for this unique spot. It’s not just about the train—it’s about the way the city comes alive around it.

Exploring Ha Long Bay: An Overnight Cruise on La Pandora Cruises

During our trip in August 2025, we embarked on a 1-night, 2-day journey from Hanoi to Ha Long Bay aboard La Pandora Cruises. From the bustling streets of Hanoi to the serene emerald waters dotted with limestone karsts, we were excited about exploring another area of Vietnam.

Our adventure started early in Hanoi. La Pandora Cruises offers a private shuttle service, which picked us up right from the hotel. We stayed at The Hanoi Plaza Suite Hotel and Spa. We booked the Family Suite with Jacuzzi for 3 of us. It was a nice hotel but the room was a bit smaller than anticipated from the photos on Booking.com.

The drive to Ha Long Bay took about 3.5 to 4 hours, winding through charming countryside, small villages, and lush rice paddies. We stopped at a few service stations and a pearl farm, which we weren’t anticipating! We felt the journey was unnecessarily long because of these stops. Be aware that booking.com doesn’t explain the exact itinerary of the transfer or indeed the cruise itself.

The drive is long but surprisingly comfortable, and the staff onboard the shuttle provided interesting information about the region’s history and culture. By the time we approached the bay, excitement was buzzing among all the passengers- the first glimpses of towering limestone cliffs emerging from the water were breath-taking.

First Impressions of Ha Long Bay

Ha Long Bay is often described as a natural wonder, and it truly lives up to its reputation. With over 1,600 limestone islands and islets, many topped with lush greenery, it’s like stepping into a real-life painting. The bay is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site for its outstanding geological value and stunning natural beauty.

When we arrived at the dock, we were shown onto a smaller transfer boat. The journey took around 40 minutes and it was nice to travel out of the main port, through Ha Long Bay itself towards where our ship was anchored. The only criticism was that we didn’t anticipate this additional transfer, again, it wasn’t mentioned on booking.com. There were many, many similar cruise ships in the port and all throughout the bay as we meandered along. I would consider trying to book one that was easily accessible at the port, rather than having to do this additional transfer. La Pandora cruises was quite affordable, so I imagine this is why! We should have researched better.

Setting Sail: The Afternoon Adventure

Once onboard, the cruise set sail. We checked into our rooms and then joined the rest of the passengers for lunch. All meals were included and we only had to pay for drinks. The rooms were dated and actually dirty. The floorboards were broken in places. The bathroom was mouldy and dirty. It was quite disappointing as the photos on booking.com make the rooms look modern, pristine and fresh. We were only staying for the night, so we just accepted it and did not let it ruin our trip.

The food on the cruise was great and the captain gave us a safety briefing and outlined the itinerary during our initial lunch. There was an opportunity to go off the ship and kayak. Then there was an evening meal and squid fishing off the back of the ship. The following morning there was Tai Chi at 6am and then another trip off the ship to a cave. We were looking forward to relaxing on the ship and sailing around the bay so we didn’t partake in any of the additional activities.

If I was to go to Vietnam again, I’m not sure I would bother with the cruise around Ha Long Bay. We could have spent longer exploring Hanoi as I don’t think we managed to see everything we could and we really enjoyed the vibe of Hanoi. Perhaps we picked the wrong cruise line and we would definitely do more research next time.

A Perfect Day Trip to Ninh Binh: Trang An & Mua Cave

If there’s one trip that stood out above all others during my holiday in Vietnam, it was my day exploring Ninh Binh. Known as the “Ha Long Bay on land,” this region is every bit as dramatic and breath-taking as the name suggests. Towering limestone karsts rise from emerald-green rice paddies, rivers snake between jungle-covered cliffs, and hidden caves open up into secret lagoons that feel like something out of a fantasy novel.

We arranged a private car from Hanoi to Ninh Binh and back, which turned out to be the perfect choice. We used Vietnam Private Car and it cost us $115 for the day. They were wonderful and we used Google translate to communicate with our driver! It gave us the freedom to leave early, set our own pace, and avoid the stress of figuring out buses or shared tours. With three of us splitting the cost, it was also affordable. By the end of the day, we agreed it was absolutely worth it.

On our visit, we joined a boat trip around Trang An—choosing the famous Route 3 with its incredible caves, including one that stretches for almost 1 km underground. Later, we climbed to the top of Mua Cave viewpoint, where sweeping views over the valleys completely stole our hearts. This combination of water, caves, and mountains made the day unforgettable—hands down, the best trip of the holiday.

Our driver picked us up early in the morning, right outside our accommodation in Hanoi. With the three of us comfortably settled in the car, we cruised out of the city while Hanoi was just beginning to wake up. The drive took about two hours, passing through small towns, open fields, and stretches of countryside that became more scenic the closer we got to Ninh Binh.

The comfort of the private car really set the tone for the day- it was stress-free, direct, and gave us plenty of time to enjoy the destinations without worrying about transport schedules. By the time we reached the boat dock at Trang An, we felt refreshed and ready to explore.

Trang An Boat Trip: Floating Through a Lost World

The highlight of Ninh Binh, for all three of us, was without question the Trang An boat tour. Arriving at the dock, we climbed into a traditional rowboat that could hold four passengers plus the boatwoman. The boat trip costs 250 000 VND per person in August 2025.

Route 3: The Cave Adventure

Trang An offers three main boat routes, but we chose Route 3 known for its dramatic caves and varied scenery. It turned out to be the perfect choice.

The route took us through a chain of caves and across wide rivers, but the highlight was the 1 km-long cave. Entering the dark opening, the air immediately cooled, and we felt as though we were slipping into another world.

Inside, the cave ceiling dipped low, and more than once we had to duck our heads. Stalactites dangled above, glistening with droplets of water that fell rhythmically into the river. It was eerily quiet, just the soft splash of oars echoing against stone walls. Emerging from the other side, sunlight flooded in, revealing a secret lagoon encircled by sheer limestone cliffs. The three of us looked at each other in awe; this was exactly why we had come.

Key Stops & Highlights

1. Trinh Temple
   • Often the first stop, it’s a historic temple that dates back to the Dinh Dynasty (10th century), set against dramatic limestone scenery.
2. Dot (May) Cave
   • The star of Route 3: 1,000 meters long, it’s the longest cave in the Trang An complex. Navigate this narrow, dimly lit limestone tunnel with your head bent and boat moving in near silence. It takes roughly 15 minutes to traverse.
3. Van Cave
   • A contrasting experience: wider and cooler, about 400 meters long, making for a more relaxed passage.
4. Suoi Tien Temple
   • A serene on-land stop featuring a modest shrine framed by lush cliffs. The temple is accessed via a short walk from a loading area.
5. Dia Linh Mountain Stretch
   • A quieter segment where the landscape opens up, offering dramatic views of towering karst peaks. The rowing is more active here- guests are often invited to help with the oars!
6. Dai Cave
   • Short and sweet – about 150–300 meters long– this cave signals the final leg of the central cave experience.
7. Vu Lam Royal Steps (Hanh Cung Vu Lam)
   • Though the boat doesn’t stop, you’ll pass by this grand historic gateway- a cluster of beautifully sculpted stone steps and temples rising from the water’s edge.
8. Kong: Skull Island Film Set
   • A fun cinematic twist to the journey- pass by the filming location used in King Kong: Skull Island. While boats don’t disembark, the façade remains compelling.

Tips for Route 3 Enjoyment

• Be prepared to duck– especially in Dot Cave (sit front if you’re tall!).
• Dress modestly– for temple stops like Trinh and Suoi Tien. No sleeveless tops or shorts.
• Help with rowing in the Dia Linh segment- it’s part of the experience and some fun bonding.
• Ideal route for photographers and thrill-seekers – especially with unique backdrops and long cave navigations.

Mua Cave: The Stairway to Heaven

After a quick lunch, our driver whisked us away to Mua Cave (Hang Múa), just a short ride from Trang An. Although it’s named after the cave at the base, the real attraction here is the viewpoint above it.

The climb involves about 500 steep stone steps, winding their way up the side of the karst mountain. In the afternoon heat, it was definitely a challenge- we paused several times along the way to sip water and catch our breath. But with the three of us motivating each other, we eventually reached the summit.

The View from the Top

Standing at the top, the effort melted away. The view was absolutely breathtaking: a patchwork of rice paddies stretching out below, cut through by winding rivers dotted with tiny boats. Jagged limestone peaks rose all around us, creating a scene that felt almost surreal.

One side of the summit features a dragon statue snaking across the ridge, while the other side offers a quieter lookout. From both spots, the scenery stretched as far as the eye could see. We stood there for a long while, each of us silently taking in the grandeur of it all.

Why This Was the Best Trip of the Holiday

As we drove back to Hanoi in the comfort of our private car, the three of us couldn’t stop talking about the day. We all agreed: this was the highlight of the holiday.

Here’s why it stood out so much:

1. Freedom & Comfort – Having a private car meant no waiting, no crowds, no rushing. We set our own schedule and traveled in comfort.
2. Variety in One Day – From rowing through caves to hiking up mountains, the day packed in both peaceful moments and physical challenges.
3. Unforgettable Views – Whether it was the hidden lagoons of Trang An or the sweeping panorama from Mua Cave, the scenery was world-class.
4. Shared Adventure – Doing it as a group of three made it even more special. Each experience felt bigger because we could share it and relive it together

Tips for Travellers

If you’re considering the same trip, here are a few things we learned:

• Private Car is Worth It – Especially if you’re a small group, it’s affordable and makes the day much smoother.
• Hydrate for the Hike – The climb to Mua Cave is rewarding but hot. Bring water and take breaks.
• Arrive Early for Trang An – It gets busier later in the day. An early start means calmer water and fewer crowds.
• Don’t Rush the Boat Tour – Sit back, relax, and enjoy the pace. It’s an experience, not just a sightseeing stop.